Spiti Valley: when to go, how to get there and what to see

Spiti is a high, dry valley in the north-east of Himachal Pradesh, bordering Tibet. It is part of the Lahaul & Spiti district and sits mostly above 3,500 m, with the main town, Kaza, at about 3,800 m. This is a cold desert of bare ridges, barley fields and old Buddhist monasteries — closer in feel to Ladakh than to the green lower hills.

When to go

The reliable season is mid-June to early October, when both approach roads are open. July and August are warmest and busiest; September brings clear skies and turning crops. Winter (roughly November to April) is severe: temperatures well below freezing, and the road from Manali closed. A small number of travellers do visit in winter via the longer Kinnaur road for the snow and the wildlife.

The two ways in

Via Shimla and Kinnaur. The longer route (about two days from Shimla) climbs gradually along the Sutlej and then the Spiti river. Because it gains height slowly, it is the better choice for acclimatisation, and it stays open for more of the year.

Via Manali and Kunzum Pass. The shorter route crosses the Atal Tunnel and then the 4,551 m Kunzum Pass. It is only open in summer and gains altitude fast, so it is harder on the body if you come straight from Manali.

Many people go in by one route and out by the other.

Altitude

Take it seriously. Spend your first day in Kaza resting rather than sightseeing, drink plenty of water, and don't sleep higher than you need to on the first two nights. Carry any medication you might need — the nearest hospital beyond Kaza's small one is a long way off.

What to see

• Key Monastery — the largest monastery in Spiti, stacked up a hillside about 12 km from Kaza.
• Tabo Monastery — founded in 996 CE, with early murals and clay figures; often called the "Ajanta of the Himalayas".
• Chandratal Lake — a crescent lake near Kunzum Pass, best visited as you cross between Spiti and Manali.
• The villages of Langza, Komic, Hikkim and Kibber, all reachable as day trips from Kaza.

A rough plan

Four to five days in the valley is comfortable: a day to reach Kaza and rest, two days for the monasteries and villages, and a day to exit over Kunzum with a stop at Chandratal. Add buffer days — road blocks and weather are normal here.