Getting around Himachal Pradesh: buses, trains, taxis and driving

Himachal is a hill state with one railway line of any use, a big government bus network, and a lot of shared and private taxis. Distances look short on a map and take much longer on the ground — 100 km on a hill road is often four hours or more.

Buses

The Himachal Road Transport Corporation (HRTC) runs an extensive network, from ordinary buses that stop everywhere to overnight Volvo AC coaches on the main routes (Delhi–Shimla, Delhi–Manali, Delhi–Dharamshala, Chandigarh–Kullu). Ordinary buses are cheap, frequent on trunk routes and the normal way locals travel; they are slow and crowded. Book long-distance and Volvo seats ahead through the HRTC online booking site, especially in summer and around festivals.

Trains

There is no broad-gauge line into the hills. The narrow-gauge Kalka–Shimla railway (a UNESCO site) is a scenic way up to Shimla but slower than road. The Kangra Valley Railway from Pathankot to Joginder Nagar runs through Kangra and Palampur and is more a slow experience than transport. For everywhere else, the nearest railheads are Chandigarh, Kalka, Pathankot, Una and Amb Andaura, and you continue by road.

Air

Himachal has three small airports — Shimla (Jubbarhatti), Kullu (Bhuntar) and Kangra (Gaggal) — with limited flights, mostly from Delhi and Chandigarh. Hill flights are weather-dependent and cancelled fairly often, so keep a road fallback in mind.

Taxis

Local taxi unions operate on fixed point-to-point rates that are usually displayed at taxi stands; agree the fare and the itinerary before you start. For multi-day trips, a hired car with driver is the flexible option. Shared taxis (sumos) run on fixed routes in the interior — Reckong Peo to Kaza, Kaza to Manali, Banjar to Jalori — and are the practical way to move where buses are thin.

Driving yourself

Self-drive and self-ride are common in Kullu, Lahaul and Spiti. Points to know:

• Hill roads demand low gears, patience and horn use on blind bends.
• High passes — Rohtang, Kunzum, Jalori, Sach, Baralacha — are seasonal; the Atal Tunnel keeps Lahaul open longer but Spiti still needs Kunzum.
• Fuel is sparse beyond Kaza and between Manali and Kaza — fill up and carry a spare canister on the Spiti circuit.
• Check road status locally before high routes; a single landslide can shut a road for hours or days.
• Permits: Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit for the border stretches of Kinnaur beyond Jangi and for parts of the Spiti–Kinnaur border area; get it in Reckong Peo or Kaza.

Rough timings from the plains

• Delhi → Shimla: ~7–9 hours by road, or overnight bus.
• Delhi → Manali: ~12–14 hours, usually an overnight bus.
• Delhi → Dharamshala: ~10–12 hours by overnight bus.
• Shimla → Kaza (via Kinnaur): two days with an overnight at Kalpa or Nako.
• Manali → Kaza (via Kunzum): one long day in summer.